“Worse than yesterday” never came. Instead we wake to another dreich, damp Waterfall Valley day. Barn
Bluff is playing hide and seek with us, as fresh clouds swirl around the
heights, dropping a few careless showers. It’s what you’d expect of winter on
the Overland Track, really. As opposed to what we’d experienced, and what had
been forecast.
[Not much visibility: a dreich day] |
Some of our hut
mates are keen to keep walking south, and face whatever befalls them. They
include Melbourne-based Lee, and German couple Manuel and Julia. And suddenly,
over breakfast, Mick tells us it includes him too.
We’re not greatly
surprised. He’s got friends coming in to meet him at the other end of the
Overland Track. They plan to then walk back into Pine Valley. Rather than have
to rearrange everything, it’s simplest if Mick sticks to the original plan. And
this way, hopefully, he’ll also achieve his first complete Overland Track trip.
We feel strangely parental
farewelling Mick, first foisting a tent and then a personal locator beacon on him,
“just in case”. I resist checking
whether he’s got a hanky. And then we walk our separate ways, Mick and friends
to the south, ourselves to the north.
[Ian on the ascent out of Waterfall Valley] |
Leaving the valley,
we ascend into the cloud that licks the rim of Bluff Cirque. It is moist though
not rainy, and we debate whether rain gear is necessary. Despite feeling like a
cooked lobster, I exercise the precautionary principle and leave mine on.
[Cloud walking along Bluff Cirque] |
We walk through
thinning cloud most of the way back, catching occasional glimpses of valleys
and mountains, and even the odd patch of blue sky. The track is still wet, or
what we would once have called wet. In comparison with our walk in, it’s
luxurious. Kitchen Hut feels that way too. When the sun threatens to break
through, we even consider digging out our sunglasses.
[Walking out of the cloud near Cradle Mt] |
By the time we’re
approaching Marions Lookout, we’re getting real views again. And when we get
mobile reception and can ring Tim D., the weather is as cheerful as his news. He’s
on target to meet us at Ronny Creek around 2pm.
[Back safe, at Ronny Creek] |
I’m not sure Tim is
used to the kind of reception we give him, unless it’s from his dog. And then,
like a pack of dogs, we’re busy exchanging news, talking nineteen to the dozen.
We quickly find out how serious and widespread “our” weather event has been.
Tim tells us three people are missing, presumed drowned, in the floods. And
hundreds of cattle have been washed away, as towns like Latrobe and Longford
have gone under.
[Tim our "rescuer", between Ian and Larry] |
On the drive down
to Sheffield, where Tim and Merran have kindly offered us a bed for the night,
we start to see the flood damage firsthand. We detour around some flooded
sections; see numerous fallen trees; and ease past sections where road verges
have slumped seriously. Our experience has been mild in comparison, though we
soon find that Facebook has told it otherwise. News of our “rescue” from the
flooded Overland Track has already hit our fb feed. It seems many people have
been quite worried about us, so we quickly reassure them.
Our “rescue” gets very
fancy when, after a blissfully hot shower, Tim and Merran break out cheese and
wine as a pre-dinner treat. And it feels complete when Tim fires up his pizza
oven, and he and Merran deliver an abundance of perfect home-made treats.
Eventually, when we can’t eat another thing, and all our tales have been told
(a few times), we retire, each to his own soft bed. And if that isn’t bliss
enough, there is no snoring to be heard!
* * *
Postcript: What became of Mick?
The day he left us
Mick did an almost 7 hour day, walking past Windermere and on to New Pelion
Hut. He’d been very concerned about potential flooding at Frog Flats. But, he says,
“I was so tired I walked straight through
the area without even realising it.”
[Mick contemplates going on: old Waterfall Valley Hut] |
At New Pelion he
caught up with Lee, and reunited him with the torch he’d left in Waterfall
Valley Hut. Mick and Lee then walked on together over Pelion Gap to Kia Ora,
choosing not to climb Mt Ossa in cloudy, showery conditions. The highlight of
the next day was the “incredible sight”
of a flooded upper Mersey River thundering over D’Alton, Fergusson and Hartnett
Falls.
Mick’s adventures
didn’t end at Narcissus, as they do for most Overland Track walkers. Instead he
picked up a resupply that had been ferried in by friends. Together they headed
back up to Pine Valley, along with Lee, Manuel, Julia and other walkers he’d
met on the main track.
To top it all off
it snowed at Pine Valley, with three inches at the hut, and nearly double that up
on the Labyrinth. He had what he described as “a
fantastic day of wandering in my favourite winter wonderland”.
Eventually even
heroes have to come home, and Mick did so with “lots of mixed feelings. I dawdled behind the others for most of (the
walk out). I wasn’t looking forward to ending what had been a pretty amazing 9
days…”.
There’s always next
time Mick!
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